The Event at Slany

The first of our real emotional days, the real reason for the five of us making our way here to begin with, was the ceremony in Slany honoring the fallen American plane. The five of us wore our Sunday clothes and were taken by bus to the small town about an hour from Prague, not really having any idea what exactly was going to happen. My family had been trying to ask the day’s schedule for months in advance, but somehow it never quite made the trans-Atlantic flight. Don, Jeff, and Jake had actually gone to Slany the day before for what they hoped would be a quiet moment to appreciate the memorial in their own time, but turned into a major pre-ceremony day that included being chauffeured by a Czech man clothed in an American GI uniform and driving an authentic Sherman Jeep (like the kind on MASH) left after WWII, visits to the mayor’s office and town museum (where Don was able to hold the actual propeller blade from his father’s aircraft), and even a flight over the town in a small plane to see the crash site from 60 years ago.

So we took a bus with a number of retired Czech military personnel, including one very distinguished-looking man who immediately caught my attention. I later found out that he is the most renowned Czech fighter pilot of the war, who is common knowledge for any Czech person—a Captain Fitel. He flew for the Royal Air Force after the German invasion of Czechoslovakia, and once after his plane was shot down, snuck across enemy lines all the way back the England to continue flying missions. When we arrived at the ceremony, we also met American and Czech representatives from the military, the town’s Vice Mayor, and an attaché from the US Embassy, who told me about jobs teaching English to the Czech Army and offered to take us on a tour of the Ambassador’s residence, “but you’d better be big Bush supporters.” He later made a comment connecting the Czech/American effort to combat tyranny in 1945 with their cooperation today in 2005 that infuriated some of the Czech audience, including our friend Misha.

The event started with an official ceremony that played both countries’ national anthems, and had Don, the Embassy man, the Vice Mayor, and the Czech military officer presenting flowers to the memorial and giving speeches. Don’s speech was translated, and I saw more than a couple of the men wiping their eyes. We then had Turkish coffee (a kind translation for mud) and a full meal in the airplane hanger, with a surprising amount of vegetarian options—you notice and remember these kinds of things! We went outside for an amazing air show that must have lasted over 90 minutes, and featured these incredible fly-bys. I also was treated to two Russian MIGs, probably the first and last time I’ll ever get to see these as the Czech military is fazing them out. Anyone who knows my infatuation with Top Gun must know what an unexpected treat this was!!!

Don, Jeff, and Jake were driven to what they believe to be the crash site as an enthusiastic Czech brass band began playing Big Band music from the era. When they returned, Don was officially presented with an array of gifts and emotionally thanked for his father giving his life to ensure freedom of the Czech lands. The entire day’s celebration was done to the accompaniment of about a dozen photographers, who must have taken over 10,000 pictures between them! Literally not a moment was undocumented, and even when our family was together, eating or talking or whatnot, we had to pretend not to notice the photographers crowding in to get their best shot. Don even sat at a table with Captain Fitel and several other military names as dozens of people brought past posters and books for them to sign, or to get their pictures with them. One even had their baby pose with him, and several people actually came to get my autograph as well!